Saturday, March 24, 2007

New Mexico: Malpais and Gila Pueblo

The Malpais (French for Bad country, not to be confused with South Dakota's Badlands) is a miles-wide lava field left by some prehistoric volcanic eruption. Competely barren; no food or water. Indians hated to cross it; whites who did would wear out a pair of mocassins in one crossing.

The lava would pour out of the volcano, sometimes in a flat flow which would solidify on the surface first and perhaps keep on flowing underneath. This could give rise to tunnels (below) or sinkholes; or if too near the surface the tunnel could collapse and leave a ravine (Next below).





Sometimes cracks would form. This photo also shows flow lines. Left, a 'lavafall'.




Beautiful vistas. Photo on right below shows 'waves' of lava as lava solidifies, then is overrun by molten lava which in turn solidifies etc.






Volcanologists really get into it and classifiy everything. Aa lava is the kind they mostly have in Hawaii (if you do crossword puzzles you knew that).

Above: did you notice the snake?






Gila pueblo: one of a great number of cliff-caves built and lived in by Indians at some time or other. A great number ceased to be occupied about 1200 AD, before the White Man got here. Nobody's sure why - Hostile neighbors, religious reasons? Most likely guess is reduced rainfall, perhaps coupled with overpopulation. Nobody knows where they went, although residents of still-occupied pueblos (there are 14 in New Mexico) say they are their ancestors.

Ruins of a Kiva, a religious meeting room. Usually, though not invariably, men-only. The little 'hearth' in the center is for aq fire. There is also a hole in the ground, which is connected with the legend that man originally lived underground, in four worlds; They progressed upward from the bottom to the top one (ruled by the Ants) and then emerged into the the upper world. At left is an opening into the outside; there would have been walls and a roof with an access hole (you'd climb a ladder to get to it) but no windows.

Right, a petroglyph; again, they generally assume ancient Indians left them but don't always know who, when, or what was meant by them. Some are clearly modern; all of them seemed to us slightly suspect.







Left, climbing up to inspect a building. They appaently lived here and climbed up to the mesa or down to the river valley floor to cultivate crops or hunt. T-shaped windows appear every so often, and seem to have some sort of religious significance.


Left, metates - shallow depressions for grinding corn using another stone. Indian women spent a lot of time doing this. One theory is that the rock dust in the corn wore down Indians' teeth so that by the time they were 40 or so they couldn't chew; for whatever reason, they didn't tend to live much beyond 30-40.




A neat little lake. We'd brought a rubber inflatable boat.

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