Saturday, June 9, 2007

Travelling with Lewis and Clark





In 2006 we caught the tail-end of the 200th reenactment of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. They were sent off by President Thomas Jefferson in 1803 after the Louisiana Purchase and returned in September 1806.



They started off from just north of St Louis, up the Missouri River: Capt Merriwether Lewis, Capt William Clark, Clark's servant York, and Clark's dog Seaman, a Black Newfoundland Retriever.Lewis and Clark with Sacajawea (or Sakagawea, as the Mandan Indians called her). She was especially important to them as Indian war parties never had women with them, let alone babies; so it was immediately obvious they had peaceful purposes. P.S. Nobody really knows what she looked like The first year they poled rather large boats full of equipment up the Missouri River, getting only as far as Fort Mandan, N Dakota.






A Mandan Indian lodge-






A map of trading routtes involving the Mandans. They were already middleman traders, getting furs etc from Indians further north and trading them in turn with St Louis; in fact, the Mandan and Hidatsa village had a bigger population then St Louis did.




To pass the winter, L&C built a fort near the Inidan villages. The whole thing was conducrted as an army expedition; those of the party that were not already in the army were sworn in for the duration of the expedition. The winter was used to get everyone used to military discipline (which does take some getting used to).
Some of the journals they kept, which were voluminous and very useful. In addition to L&C, four of the enlisted members kept some sort of journal.




Surveying instruments. They did a lot of pretty high-quality surveying and mapping.
Lewis & Clark's quarters.
Some of the trade goods. The whole thing was half exploration and half diplomatic mission. They shmoozed bigtime with every tribe they met, telling them all about the Great White Farther in Washington and passing out medals and gifts. This must have bemused some of the tribes, who had already gotten the same message about a Great White Father in France, or England, or Spain. Hey, let's start a collection of these medals!


At another point, they lectured one tribe about how the Great White Father wanted them all to live peacefully with each other and stop raiding and fighting. Their question was, if we stop fighting how do we choose our chiefs?





The one thing all the tribes wanted the most was rifles, so they'd have an advantage in fighting the other tribes. This L&C absolutely refused to give them.


Pierre Cruzat, a most engaging character. A one-eyed fur trapper, he played the fiddle every time they met the Indians, and the soldiers danced. The Indans reciprocated ith singing, drumming and dancing, and the good times rolled. Later on, towards the end of the expedition, being one-eyed and not seeing all that well out of the other eye, he shot Capt Clark in the backside, under the impression that he was a deer. Clark recovered all right, but was never quite as fond of Cruzatte after that.
After spending the winter at Fort Mandan (before that, they had spent a winter at St Louis, getting ready), they took off up the Missouri. Most of their boats were pirougues like this one.
Unfortunately, we didn't get to see most of their route: up the Missouri to Great Falls, Montana, over the mountains to the Columbia, down the Columbia to the sea where they spent the winter, then back the other way. On the way back, they split their party at one point. Here, Capt Clark's section stopped at a large rock which Clark named Pompey's Pillar - Pompey being his name for the infant Sacajawea had borne and carried most of the way. (Later, after Sacajawea died, Clark adopted Pompey and educated him. He became a man of parts, spending several years in Europe and exploring extensively.)Nearby, he cut his name into the rock - the only physical evidence they left along the way.

We did get there for the grand finale: the reenactment of their arrival back at St Louis. After two winter and three summers, most people assumed they had died along the way. The Arch, which commemorates the fact that a great number of emigrants to the west passed thru St Louis.



Re-enactors awaiting the arrival of the boats:
One of the pirougues:

The flatboat:

The arrival: Capt Lewis with the pike he generally carried, called an Espontoon, and York.



Clark
Well yes, the Indians did play a significant part in the whole business. Diplomatically as well as exploration-wise, the expedition was a pretty big success.

Indian drummers



and dancers


After that, it was time to head for home. We stopped at Churchill Downs, site of the Kentucky Derby,



The Baseball Hall of Fame,






Fort Knox, where you can no longer see where the gold is stored (thank you very much, Osama) but can see the Army Armor Museum


which features a lot about General Patton ("This business about Dying for your Country is a lot of crap. The whole idea is to get the other poor bastard to die for his country").
A piece of the Berlin Wall:
And later, to Montgomery, Alabama, where son Daniel was graduating from Air Force Officer Training School. He's now in Boston, dointg research under the Air Force Satellite program.

Aaaaand, home - until next year...










Tuesday, June 5, 2007

2007-#7: New Mexico

New Mexico, Land of Enchantment. It is different, somehow. Gorgeous scenery, of course ---
Mesilla, NM - a lot of old buildings. Billy the Kid is a mainstay of te tourist trade, out here. He was a ruthless killer, a halfway retarded, an honest but misguided guy who stood by his friends and got in trouble for it, a hero to the Mexicans, or maybe an early fighter for social justice - take your pick, nobody can prove any of it. He was "shot by Pat Garrett, who'd once been his friend", or maybe died of old age. Church in Mesilla - not old, but nice.
This roadrunner dominates the skyline on a hill outside Las Cruces
And it's environmentally responsible...

There's a mesh of steel wire, filled with old computer keyboards, pots and pans, tin cans, fenceposts, signs...but the chief ingredient is sneakers: Just for interest, here's a real roadrunner. Incidentally, coyotes, Wiley E. or whatever, almost never go after roadrunners. Not only are they pretty fast, there's not much meat on them...
The roadrunner is an amazing bird. He (or she) kills a rattlesnake by grabbing it by the head , lifting it in the air and smashing it on the ground, which fractures its spine. After it's done this a half-dozen times, the snake is dead, and he swallows it. If the snake is so long he can't get it all down, he just rests in the shade, with the end of the snake hanging out of his mouth, until the front part is digested. Then he swallows some more, until it's all gone.

The snake's best tactic, it turns out, is to curl up with its head hidden inside its coils. If the roadrunner can't find the head, he gives up.


Later on, in California, we saw this whole tree full of sneakers. Is something going on with sneakers?



Las Cruces - a beautiful toen. This is the Heritage Museum...



The Wild Bunch. They were pretty wild, even tho they did seem to dress well.
Saddlemaking kit belonging to Austin 'Slim' Green. It turns out there is a whole lot to saddlemaking; a good one cost a lot, even back then.
A Sidesaddle: ladies who thought it immodest to ride astride the horse, or who had a dress on, sat sort of sideways.The had a lot about hats, too: A hat stretcher:Hats:






A J. B. Stetson advertisement
Clever (or maybe stupid) sign



On the Gila National Forest, a trail up a narrow canyon, called the Catwalk:



This is reconstructed; the original was much like it, being a maintenance walkway along a flume that brought water down from the top to a mining operation. Eventually they used it to generate power as well as refine the ore.
Note the bolts, for holding the mountain together:
Out in the desert west of Datil, NM: The VLA, or Very Large Array, of radio telescopes. There are 27 of them, aranged in a Y-shaped array of three arms, each of which can be as long as 13 miles. The elecronics are complicated, involving amplifiers that run at 15 deg Kelvin to reduce noise. The scientests never have to go near the place; they submit their requirements, and the data gets transmitted back to them, by internet. That is, Verrrry Large. See the truck next to one of them?
Of course, they all point in the same direction, unless one is out of commission, which two or three always seem to be, in which case they go belly-up, you might say.13 miles sounds like a nice round number, but it's far enough that they have to move the units by rail, so they have their own railroad. I think by exempt they mean no crossing signal is needed; they move at about 2-3 MPHDatil Well: There were a whole series of these wells, about ten miles apart, for watering the herd on cattle drives.
Black (or brown, or cinnamon) Bear. They're really big on not leaving food out, or approaching bears - if they get used to people, sooner or later they'll maul somebody, so the often end up being put down, which is politically unpopular.



Alligator Cypress tree. Rather rare.
On the way west...On the way out of New Mexico, we went thru Pietown - the cattle drives in the old days went thru here, and a local bakery made pies for them to take along on the trail. It's also right on the Continental Divide; we got a coffee cup that says "It's all down hill from here."


And so, off into the sunset...